Home to one of the oldest civilizations in the world, Egypt is filled with history. It is a country like no other. This is one of the cheapest countries that I have traveled to. It is a trip that will not break the bank, but you will feel like you got great value. Tourism is one of the main drivers of revenue for the country and it has been slower lately due to the ongoing war between Israel and the Hamas, but the country is very safe and there is nothing to worry about. You can spend anywhere from 4 days to 3 weeks exploring the country, but I suggest you stay at least 10 days if you don’t want to be rushed, especially if traveling from North America.

When To Visit

November to March is the best time to visit to avoid heat, but this is also high season. Late April to end of May and late September to end of October are the shoulder months and will be less busy and hotels will be cheaper, but you may find yourself with some hot temperatures (nothing unbearable though). The average temperature during the shoulder months is 30-35°C. July is the hottest month with temperatures ranging from 35-45°C so it is best to avoid the summer months.

Getting There

From Canada, there is a direct flight daily from Toronto to Cairo on Egypt Air. You can sometimes find great business class deals on points for this direct flight (less than $1000 CAD). From the US, there are direct flights daily from New York and Washington DC to Cairo.

There are also direct flights into Luxor, Marsa Alam and Sharm El Sheik from a few cities in Europe (see Luxor and Marsa Alam sections for more details).  

Visa Process

Since October 2023, Canadians now need a physical visa to visit Egypt. Passports need to be sent to the embassy via the application process. It costs $150 CAD for a one entry visa. The processing time online says it takes 2-3 weeks to get your passport back, but we received ours within 1 week. You need:

• Cover letter addressed to the Embassy with your full name, address, phone number and email address requesting a visa
• Money order for $150 CAD (or $205 CAD for multiple entry) made out to the Embassy of Egypt in Ottawa
• Self-addressed prepaid courier envelope (Canada post with tracking number) – make sure you put your return address on the envelope
• Filled and signed visa application (1 application per individual)
• Two passport sized photos with white background (4cm x 6cm size)
• Copy of your travel itinerary, or bookings (cancellable flight and hotel confirmations are good to use)
• Your original passport

You need to mail the visa to:

Attention: Visa
Consulate Section
Embassy of the Arab Republic of Egypt
454 Laurier Avenue East
Ottawa, ON
K1N 6R3

Americans and Europeans also need a visa for Egypt, but the process is easier than Canadians as you can get it upon arrival or you can get an e-visa online. It costs $25 USD for a single entry visa of $60 for multiple entry.

Fun Facts about Egypt

• Alcohol is not a part of the culture, but sheesha is. All of the big chain hotels will have license to serve alcohol but hard alcohol and wine is very expensive. Beer is reasonable though, the most you pay at a high-end hotel is $4 a beer. You will find sheesha cafes on every street. It costs £50-150 EGP depending on the quality.
• Currency used is Egyptian Pounds (EGP). $1 USD is equivalent to47 EGP at the time of writing this post (June 2024).
• 95% of Egyptians live within a few kilometers of the Nile.
• Arranged marriages are still very common.
• 85% of the population is Muslim, and the other 15% Christian Orthodox.
• Because the majority of the population is Muslim, you will not find pork on any restaurant menu.
• The average salary is $425 USD a month, which is about $14 USD per day.
• Gas is very cheap and subsidized by the government. It costs around 25 cents US per liter.
• Local foods include:
  • Falafel (made from green beans)
  • Mulukhiyah (a leafy plant that is ground up into a vegetable dish)
  • Shawarma
  • Kofta (ground beef and lamb)
  • Koshari (pasta, rice, vermicelli, lentils, chickpeas, a garlicky tomato sauce, garlic vinegar, and crispy fried onions)
  • Mahshi (rice stuffed veggies)

Before You Go

• Make sure you negotiate all prices with locals (for tours, rides, and anything you purchase in a store or market). They always start with a very high price and try to take advantage of you being a tourist.
• Exchange rates are very good for CAD/USD/Euro so you can use a credit card at places that accept them and not get dinged.
• Exchange some USD for cash as you will need it for entrance fees (if not included in your tour price), tipping, snacks and shopping.
• Tipping is what a lot of people that work in tourism rely on. A dollar goes a long way in Egypt, so it is always very appreciated when you tip for good service.
• They use type C and F plugs (two round pins), and operate on a 220V supply voltage and 50Hz so make sure to bring a converter to charge your devices.  
• If you can bring some alcohol into the country via your connection duty free, bottles of wine are probably best as you can easily have a glass on the patio of your hotel room or bring it on a boat cruise.
• If you have a student ID, bring it as prices for students are 50% cheaper to visit all of the historic sites.
• Food and drinks at restaurants are very reasonable, even the tourist ones. You can get a great meal for £350 EGP.
• Hotel food prices will be much higher, more similar to prices in North America.
• Be careful of pickpockets in Old Cairo and the bazaar. Make sure you keep your phone and wallet secure when walking around.
• Packing a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen is key as the sun in is very strong and some sites will not have a lot of shade.
• Do not drink the tap water. It is also best to use bottled water when brushing your teeth as well, especially if you have a sensitive stomach.
• At all the tourist sites, locals (the people working security and ticketing at the sites) will ask to take your picture, just say no because they will ask for money after and if you don’t give them any they will harass and follow you.
• Pack pepto and citromycin just in case you catch a stomach bug. It’s always better to be prepared. In the case that you get sick in Egypt and don’t have any meds, you can purchase Antinal at any pharmacy which will help you.  
• In Cairo and Luxor, women should try to avoid wearing shorts, short skirts, tank tops or low cut shirts. I suggest bringing loose fitting clothes, linen is always a good idea!
• Learn a few basic Arabic phrases:
  • Hello = al salam alaykom (or just “al salam”)
  • Thank you = shukran (you can also use this word for “no thank you” when people are trying to sell you things on the street)
  • Yes = aywa
  • No = la’a
  • Bye = ma’ al-salama

CAIRO

Home to arguably the most magnificent wonder of the world, the Great Pyramids of Giza, Cairo is a place you must spend at least two days exploring. With over twenty million people, this city is rich in history and culture as is the focal point of Ancient Egypt.

Getting There

EgyptAir flies into Cairo from all airports around the country. For domestic travel, EgyptAir line can get very long to check in bags so make sure you allocate enough time. They don’t take away liquids through security tough so you can keep your water. Most domestic flights also have a shuttle from the airport that takes you to the plane and you need to get on the shuttle no later than 25 mins before departure.

Getting Around

If you pre-organize a pickup from the airport with a tour company, it will cost $10-$20 USD depending on where you are staying. This drive could take up to an hour depending on traffic and the time of day you get in. It is best to organize a transfer ahead of time with a tour company so that you don’t get ripped off when you land.

They have Uber and it’s very cheap. But don’t allow Uber drivers to pick up from the airport which is why it’s easier to organize a pickup with a company or guide even though it will cost more. It should cost only ~£200 EGP to get from downtown to the airport. There are also tuk tuk’s that you can take to get around but again, make sure you negotiate the price prior to getting in.

If you are in town for a while, there is also a local app called inDrive that you can download. It’s similar to Uber but you can negotiate with the driver / bid on what you want to pay for a ride.  

Where To Stay

• Fairmont Nile – one of the best hotels in the city, but also is one of the most expensive. Located right on the Nile River, this hotel has a great view of the city. A room costs ~$250 USD a night. 
• St. Regis Nile – one of the newest hotels along the Nile River (opened in 2021).They offer apartments for nightly rent as well and have free bikes. A room costs ~$525 USD a night. 
• Four Seasons Nile – another one of the top hotels in the city that offers an indoor and outdoor pool, spa and gym. A room costs ~$450 USD a night. 
• Marriott Mena House – located near Giza with a view of the pyramids. There is a spa, fitness center and pool. A room costs ~$450 USD a night.  
• Hotel Eileen – a very reasonable family run 19 room bed and breakfast Downtown. It is in a safe location and walking distance from the Egyptian museum and good local eats. It can get a bit loud at night but after a long day of touring, it’s pretty easy to sleep through it. A room costs ~$50 USD a night. 
• Novotel Airport Hotel – a good option if you land in the middle of the night or if you have an early flight. It’s reasonable and has a pool, gym and great breakfast buffet. A room costs ~$120 USD a night. 

What To Do

The best thing to do is to organize a tour guide to take you around to all the main sites. Tour guides range in price, you can find some that are very cheap, but they may not have the knowledge that others have. I highly recommend you use Deen. You can reach him on Whatsapp at +20 106 0440765. A tour for 2-3 people costs around $250 USD for the day (or two half days) including the tour guide, driver and transportation, entrance fees, lunch and water. Below are the things to do in Cairo.

• Pyramids of Giza – these are the Pyramids of King Cheops, Chephren and Mykerinus that are one of the wonders of the world. Go first thing in the morning when it opens at 7:15am to avoid big crowds. You may event get lucky and be the only people inside the pyramid! It costs £540 EGP to enter the grounds and an additional £900 EGP to enter the Great Pyramid of King Cheops, Khufu. Make sure you also visit the panorama viewing area of the pyramids (from the front) to get some good photos. Here you can also choose to go on a camel ride if you want for $20 USD or you can just take some photos on a camel for $2 USD per person.
• The Great Sphinx of Giza – one of the most recognizable statues in the world dating from the time of 2600 B.C. Nearby you can also visit the Valley Temple, which was home to King Chefren. This is included in the cost of the Great Pyramids grounds ticket.
• Egyptian Museum – to see King Tut’s tomb and valuables that were found in the tomb. There are thousands of ancient Egyptian artifacts in this museum, including animal mummies, so many it could take hours to see all of them. It costs £450 EGP to enter and the last entrance is at 3:50pm.
• Khan El Khali Bazaar – there are lots of shops around here to buy souvenirs, you can find everything from candle holders, lamps, backgammon sets, pillow cases and bags. Make sure you negotiate prices. The further away from the main area you go, the better the prices. A 12”x12” square pillow case, depending on quality should only cost £50-100 EGP.
• Explore Old Cairo – walk around the streets and look at all the old buildings and mosques.
• Visit Al-Azhar Mosque – the most popular mosque in Egypt. It’s worth seeing and it’s free to enter but you need to take off your shoes and cover your shoulders and hair. They can lend you a cover for a tip.
• Shop for Clothes – prices are good for good quality shirts, not as cheap relative to food, lodging or transportation but you can still get a nice shirt for $20-25 USD. Walk down Talaat Harb Street or Adly Street downtown (you can start at Talaat Harb Square) and wander the shops. Naga Homme is a nice shop for men’s clothes. The bigger more structured stores have set prices, but you can negotiate in the smaller shops.
• Papyrus Institute – all tour guides will bring you a papyrus shop where you learn and see how ancient Egyptians used to make papyrus paper. This is free and it is a tourist trap, but it is interesting. Prices are high but you aren’t forced to buy anything. The English word PAPER that we are using now is actually a hieroglyphic word consists of two words (PA PER) which means belongs to the royal palace because the papyrus was extremely expensive and made specially for the use of the Pharaoh, the royal palace and the temples. Then the name was adopted by all languages.
• Half Day in Sakkara – located 30km south of Cairo and is worth a visit. This is where you can see the first stone buildings ever built in 2800 B.C. Here you will see the Step Pyramids and the complex of King Zoser, the Pyramid of King Teti and the Tomb of Kagemeni. Unlike the great pyramids, here you will see hieroglyphics on the walls and colour! It costs £450 EGP to enter the grounds. It is also worth getting the extra ticket which costs £270 EGP to see the Serapeum, which is where 26 sacred bulls were buried.
• Memphis Open Air Museum – on the way down to Sakkara, stop by this museum where you can see a huge statue of Ramses II. It costs £150 EGP to enter.

Where To Eat

• Abou Tarek Restaurant – located downtown, known for koshary, a traditional dish that locals eat for lunch containing rice, macaroni, lentils and chickpeas with a spicy tomato sauce and fried onions. It costs only £50 EGP for the meal. Make sure to get the rice pudding for desert for £25 EGP to cool you down!
• Kaber Sobhy Restaurant – a very local restaurant serving all sorts of Egyptian foods, located in a very local area of the city. They don’t have English menus and most of the servers don’t speak English so it’s best to go with someone who speaks Arabic or your tour guide. If you want to go on your own, download the google translate app and you can translate the menu and order that way. One main beef dish will cost £200-250 EGP and comes with bread, dips, salad and roasted eggplant. Recommendations are the beef ribs, moussaka tajine with beef and mixed vegetable mahshi.
• Kazaz – located downtown, this take out spot is great for breakfast, lunch or a snack. They have great falafels for £10-20 EGP, chicken or beef shawarma rolls for £85 and £115 EGP and many other local foods.
• Fresh Juices – there are fresh juice stands all around the city. Make sure to get a sugarcane, hibiscus, lemon & mint, mango or orange juice. They are all delicious and will only cost between £15-30 EGP.

LUXOR

Home to the Valley of the Kings, Luxor is a city you must visit as it’s just as rich in history as Cairo. Once the pharaohs realized that the pyramids were getting robbed because they were too easy to spot, they decided to build their tombs in the Valley of the Kings, hidden between the mountains.

Getting There

Luxor is a quick 45-minute flight from Cairo on EgyptAir and there are multiple flights daily. You can also fly from Sharm el-Sheikh which is only 1 hour on Air Cairo. This is a small airport so if you have your boarding pass and don’t need to check in luggage, you can arrive 45 mins in advance. All domestic flights out of the Luxor airport shuttle you to the plane, so you need to make sure you’re at the gate no later than 25 minutes before the departure time. They also let you bring liquids through on the domestic flights so you can bring water.

There are also direct flights from the UK (London Gatwick, Manchester), Spain (Madrid), Italy (Rome), Switzerland (Zurich). These flights aren’t daily so if you plan on taking a flight in or out of the country from Luxor, check the dates each airline flies.

Nile River Cruise

If you have the time, it would be worth spending a few nights cruising down the Nile River from Luxor to Aswan or from Aswan to Luxor. You can go from Aswan to Luxor (3 nights/4 days), Luxor to Aswan (4 nights/5 days), or Aswan to Aswan/Luxor to Luxor (7 days). All of the river boats have the same itinerary, but boats range 10 to 40 rooms. You have very early wake up calls though so make sure you’re prepared for that. The cost is normally per room and per night and includes all food. You can find cruises between the $400 and $600 USD range but if budget isn’t an issue, it might be worth looking at one of the cruises below:

• Historia – a luxurious Boutique Nile River Cruise that has 44 suites
• Movenpick – offers a few different boat options and a part of the All Accor rewards program
• Sonesta – the Sonesta Star has 33 suites each with private balconies

Getting Around

A taxi to and from the airport should cost £200 EGP for the 15-minute drive, but most people will try to charge you way more. £300-400 EGP is a decent price if you don’t feel like negotiating. Like Cairo, it is best to organize a transfer ahead of time so that you don’t get ripped off. The hotels also overcharge (the Sofitel charges $60 USD for the transfer). If you want to arrange a transfer for £400 EGP, contact Shaimaa and she can help. Her number is +20 102 082 8224.

There are also taxis and horse carriages all over the city (most of them will hassle you if you just walk down the street) so if you need to get somewhere quick you can always find a ride, but make sure to negotiate the price before getting in. Getting around the city should be fairly cheap.

They also just opened a new bridge connecting the East Bank and West Bank in May 2024 which saves a lot of travel time. You can now comfortably visit all the main sites on both sides of the Nile in one day if you start early in the morning.

Where To Stay

There are a few good hotels to stay at in Luxor. The best hotel to stay at is the Sofitel Winter Palace located walking distance from the Luxor temple on the east bank of the Nile. They are also currently building a Four Seasons, set to open in 2025. Below are three good hotel options that are all along the Nile and have pools.

• Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor – An old castle turned hotel with a beautiful garden and lap pool on the east bank. A room costs ~$250 USD per night.
• Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa – A more modern hotel located north of Karnak on the east bank. A room costs ~$120 USD per night.
• Djorff Palace – A hotel with an Arabian feel located on the west bank. A room costs ~$90 USD per night.

What To Do

The best thing to do is to organize a tour guide to take you around to all the main sites. Similar to Cairo, tour guides range in price, you can find some that are very cheap, but they may not have the knowledge that others have. I highly recommend you use Shaimaa. Her number is +20 102 082 8224. A tour with for 2-4 people should cost around $250 USD for one full day or two half days including the tour guide, driver, entrance fees, lunch and water. Below are the main sites you should visit.

• Valley of the Kings – this is where a lot of the Pharaohs built their tombs, including King Tut. There are over 63 tombs here. A lot of them are closed for restoration but there are still a bunch you can explore. The entrance ticket which costs £600 EGP includes visitation to 3 of the tombs (kids under 6 are free), but you need to pay extra to see King Tut (£500 EGP), Seti The First (£1800 EGP) and Ramesses V & VI (£180 EGP). Because all the tombs are underground and shaded, it’s not too bad going in the middle of the day when there are less people.
• Queen Hatshepsut Temple – this is a temple built by the only female pharaoh who ruled Egypt. It gets very hot here and there isn’t much shade so it’s best to visit this first thing in the morning. It costs £360 EGP to enter.
• Colossi of Memnon – two enormous statues still stand at this destroyed temple, which is nice for a photo. It is free to visit.  
• Deir el Madina – the ancient Egyptian artisan village that was home those who worked on the tombs in the Valley of the Kings. The tombs are built down into the ground vs horizontally into the mountains so the colour is more preserved and vibrant. The tombs are smaller, but it is worth seeing the difference in colour. It costs £360 EGP to enter.
• Alabaster Village – all tour guides will take you to the alabaster village to see how they used to make items out of stone in the ancient times. You will also have a chance to purchase vases, lamps and other items made from the alabaster stone but it is a tourist trap as you can find all the same things in the bazaars for way less.  
• Falluca Boat Ride down the Nile – sail down the Nile River on a private falluca. It costs $30 USD for 1 hour on the Nile. Make sure that there is enough wind to sail though, otherwise it would be worth switching your boat to one with a motor.
• Luxor Temple and the Avenue of the Sphinx connecting to Karnak temple – this is the longest and the oldest historical road in the whole world. It is located walking distance from the Sofiel hotel and is open late (last entrance is 8pm). They also offer light shows at the temple at night for an additional cost. It costs £400 EGP to enter.
• Karnak Temple – a city of temples built over 2000 years. This is the largest religious building ever constructed. It costs £450 EGP to enter.
• Valley of the Queens – where they buried all of wives, daughters and sons of the pharaohs. Over 75 tombs can be found here, including Queen Nefertiti’s tomb. It costs £180 EGP to enter, but an extra £1400 EGP to visit Queen Nefertiti’s tomb.

Where To Eat & Drink

• El Kababgy Restaurant – for lunch, dinner or a snack on the East bank right across the street from the Sofitel hotel down by the water. The service is good, the food is delicious, and it costs £350 EGP for a great tagine meal, or £180 EGP for a shawarma.
• Restaurant Paris – for lunch on the West bank just down the road from the Colossi of Memnon. It is a place that only tourists go to because their tour guides bring them but it’s delicious. If lunch is included on your tour, ask to go to this restaurant.  
• Royal Bar at Sofitel – drinks are pricey compared to local costs (£500 EGP for a cocktail) but a beer will only cost you £195 EGP. The bar has a great atmosphere and a live piano player starting at 8pm every night.

EL QUSEIR & MARSA ALAM

The Egyptian coast of the Red Sea is a must if you love marine life. They have some of the most incredible dive sites in the world with beautiful coral reefs. If you can, spend a few nights along the coast. The further south you go, the better the dive sites. A liveaboard is also a great option to explore the Red Sea and they are reasonable (~$1000 USD for one week including full board and 3-4 dives a day).

Getting There

Marsa Alam is a quick one-hour flight from Cairo. You can take a flight from Cairo on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday on Egypt Air. Or you can fly direct from Germany (Frankfurt, Munich, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Berlin, Nuremberg, Hannover, Leipzig), Switzerland (Zurich), Czech Republic (Prague, Brno, Ostrava), Poland (Warsaw, Katoice), Belgium (Brussels), Italy (Rome, Milan, Bologna, Naples), the Netherland (Amsterdam), Austria (Vienna) and Slovakia (Bratislava). Prices are very reasonable if you book in advance. If you are planning to fly direct rom another country in Europe, make sure you check the days that the route is flown as some routes are only once a week.

Depending on your itinerary, you can also take a car from Luxor. It is a 3.5 hour drive if you can find a driver that will take the Egyptian short cut (you might need to hide in the back at certain checkpoints), otherwise it is a 5 hour drive. This should cost no more than $150 USD. If you are coming from Hurghada, it is a 3 hour drive and should cost around $100 USD.

Getting Around

This is a resort town so in order to get around, you will likely have to get the hotel to organize it. If you are staying around El Quseir, Mido is a reliable and personable driver that you can contact to organize airport pickups or to see the town. His number is +20 101 729 7075 and you can contact him on whatsapp. Make sure you set the price before hand and negotiate because he will start high. A ride from the Marsa Alam airport to El Quseir should cost $20-$30 USD.

Where To Stay

Large resorts are spread out along the coast of the Red Sea. There are many options, and if on a budget you can find some very cheap resorts, for $50-$80 USD per night. But I highly recommend you stay at the Movenpick Resort in El Quseir. The rooms are really comfortable, the service is incredible, the food is delicious, and they have a great reef just off the beach that you can snorkel or scuba dive (they have a dive shop on property). They also have a nice gym, spa, tennis court and squash court.

The price to stay here is also very reasonable, between $150 to $200 USD per night depending on when you go. Breakfast is included for everyone at the hotel. It is a delicious breakfast that’s open from 6am until 11am. They also have a daily chocolate hour from 3-4pm that is included, a free Arabian cooking class once a week and daily yoga classes (the first one is included within your stay). They also have a doctor on site 24/7 if anything happens.

What To Do

• Scuba dive – with a wide range of marine life spanning from rays, to sharks to dolphins to turtles, if you are certified, you must dive here. For a more personal experience, I would highly recommend diving with Mido. His number is +20 100 454 4437. You can contact him via whatsapp and it will cost $75 USD for two shore dives including all equipment. There is a dive shop located at the Movenpick hotel but it can get expensive if you don’t bring your own gear, and they make you do a welcome dive to see what your level is (but it’s still something you pay for). The dive shop is very clean and well organized and would make sense if you are comfortable diving without a guide and if you have your own gear (if you qualify to dive without a guide, it is quite nice to just go out whenever you want and explore as long as you want). It costs €41 per dive, and an additional €28 for all the equipment (or €38 for equipment per day). Then an additional €6 per guided dive and €6 for a boat ride if you are diving somewhere outside of the house reef.
• Snorkel – there are many reefs along the coast that you can snorkel but if you’re staying at the Movenpick, the house reef is great for snorkeling and has a ton of marine life.
• Relax by the beach or pool – all resorts have a beach and a pool. Take advantage of the sun and just hanging out at the beach or pool.
• Visit the town of El Quseir – there isn’t much in the town but if you are interested, go into town and walk around. The Movenpick offers a free trip every Friday from 6-7:30pm to go explore the town.

Where To Eat & Drink

You will likely stay at your hotel for all of your meals. At the Movenpick, I highly recommend the Fisherman’s Dinner which is offered on Wednesdays and Saturdays. It is a semiprivate dinner located at the end of the beach with a fixed menu. Be warned, it is a lot of food so make sure you go hungry! This dinner is worth the price of $75 USD per person. They have locals come in and cook for you. You can see them make the bread in a stone oven and cook the freshly caught seafood on an open charcoal grill. They also bring in live music and an entertainer who puts on a show between courses.

Seagull’s restaurant at the Movenpick is also a great option. Try to reserve a table right by the YY as the view is great. This is also a good spot to watch sunset.

Top of the Rock Bar is a great spot for a pre-dinner drink. They give you cucumber and carrots with a dip if you order a drink as well.